Bathroom Renovation Plumbing part one was in my opinion the hardest part of the plumbing process. If you have forgotten where we came from in this process you can check them out here, here, here, here, here, and here!
We started with measuring where the shower drain would be, to then lay out the PVC pipes to the angle to meet up with the original cast iron stack. At the same time we had to restructure the toilet flange and “why” to be able to “why” off toward the shower drain. Oh our heads were spinning, the ipad was spitting out you tube video after video, and many trips to home depot, amazon, and other online plumbing sources to make sure our theories were the right theories.
Step 1: We needed to figure out the best way to measure accurately where the shower drain would sit at the stringers to figure out how the drain would lay in the floor. This involved a sharpie, carefully laying the basin, and and a tiny flashlight to make sure we were getting our scientifically measured point on the stringer. See below photos for better understanding. All at the same time follow our super accurate directions that came from the basin company to be completely sure we were doing the right thing!
Step 2: Now that we have a super accurate measurements (it was my idea, and I will take the blame if we are off *spoiler* my idea worked)! Time to measure from that point on each stringer 1/4″ up per ever foot. This meant the hole for our shower drain needed to go down (at the bottom) 1/4″ every stringer. This means that when we tie in to the original stack we would be at our lowest point. See below photos for more understanding. To get what we thought would be somewhat accurate we used our t-square and tape measure to move down 1/4″ every stringer.
Step 3: Taking out the original Cast iron pipe and toilet flange. We supported it (so it wouldn’t fall through the ceiling when released), purchased a pack of 6″ cast iron sawzall blades, measured the replacement pieces, and then measured the original pipe 3″ less and cut on the long side of the measured line. The last thing we wanted to do was cut it short. We also didn’t want to apply any pressure with pipe cutting material because of fear of cracking the 50 year old pipe. So with sawzall, sawzall blades, and safety glasses (a must because of flying cast iron pieces), Dan began cutting. Two trips to Home Depot, (one for ear plugs and more 6″ blades (we burned through them quickly), second for 12″ blades to get through the final bit), and 12 hours later we had a lot of cheering, high fives and rejoicing with the removal of the very much hated pipe in our house! Hooray for no more of this anytime soon.
Step 4: Start putting in the new PVC pipes for the toilet and the “why” off to the shower drain. Dan was so patient with me during this, because I really wanted to learn. It took my visual brain a bit to process how the pipes would all work and go together but I picked up quickly! To transition from the original cast iron pipe to the new PVC pipes we had to use “Fernco fittings“. Between each fernco was a piece of PVC that they tightened on to (provided by us). When you tighten down the fernco fittings we used a hex wrench till it was clicking or at 6psi. We finished the new pipes with a brand new and shiny pvc toilet flange. Attaching the PVC with primer and glue, but do not use primer and glue on the fernco. After all this piping was done, we added the fernco “why” to the shower drain and were ready to start building out the shower drain. This will come in part 2.
So this is a lot! It took us a full day, 12 hours of cutting watching football and much frustration and 1 hour of putting it all back together. Many high fives were given after we were done. Knowing that the rest was going to be quite easy, well until we get to the hot and cold water. Shower drain installation is up next, better go grab those photos for you all!
Here is a break down of the cost so far:
2 packs of sawzall blades — $15
earplugs — $2
toliet flange — $6
1 fernco “why” — $8
1 fernco 4″ to 3″ — $8
3″ PVC stub — $4
3″ 90 degree PVC — $3
3″ 45 degree PVC — $2.42
Primer and Glue — Free (thanks to a friend)
Sawzall — Free (birthday present from me)
Total — $42.42
and finally the To-do List in case you forgot what it looked like!
The big To-do List:
Check for room in the ceiling for Air Duct Move/pickup all things upstairs and prep for demo Take out all things that are donate-able (i.e towel racks, toilet paper holder, etc) Take all donate-ables to Habitat Restore Turn off water to sink and toilet let drain for a couple days Remove Sink and Toilet for safe keeping (keeping toilet, getting new sink) Demolition — take down drywall, take up vinyl tile, cut carpet in bedroom at spot for new walls Remove studs in the between wall properly to save for new wall Buy new Sink (pedestal we are thinking) Habitat Restore steal!
shower base, shower doors, shower fixtures Build New wall
Rough in New Plumbing for
toilet and Shower Move electric box from shower wall to bedroom wall Rough in electric (I promise mom you will get to dry your hair in the bathroom) Build/Install Pocket Door Install Exhaust fan
Lay sub floor
Lay Backer board
Install new duct work in ceiling
Install Backboard on the wall where we will put tile
Hang new drywall — we will be taking all the drywall down and starting over!
Pick out and install new tile on the wall (purchasing from Habitat Restore)
Pick out and install new floor tile (purchasing from Habitat Restore)
Install Shower Base, toilet and new pedestal sink
pick out new light fixtures
Install final plumbing fixtures
Pick paint colors